Fold & Pull

Eighty recipes for noodles, dumplings and buns made by hand, in eight chapters that run from a bowl of flour to a plate of pleated dumplings and then west along the road the dumpling actually traveled — Nepal, Turkey, Georgia, Poland, Mongolia. Hydration is given as a percentage throughout, because that is what the difference between a noodle and a wrapper actually is.

Recipes

118

Pages

PDF

Format

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What's inside

01 10 recipes

Dough by Hand: Wheat, Water, Salt

Every dough here has its hydration printed as a percentage.

02 10 recipes

Ramen & the Long Broth

The tare, the broth and the fat are kept separate.

03 10 recipes

Jiaozi & Gyoza: the Pleated Dumpling

Here the pleat is explained rather than photographed.

04 10 recipes

Soup Dumplings & the Steamed Bun

Starting with the aspic that becomes the soup.

05 10 recipes

Wontons & the Thin Wrapper

Rolled thin enough to read through.

06 10 recipes

The Hot Wok: Fried Noodles

Each one says how many portions the pan actually holds.

07 10 recipes

Cold Noodles & the Sauce Bowl

Rinsed cold, with four sauces that keep a week.

08 10 recipes

Further West: the Dumpling That Kept Traveling

From momo to manti to pierogi.

Sample recipe · page 8

Knife-Cut Noodles, Daoxiao Mian

Ingredients

500 g (4 cups) bread flour
225 ml water, 45% hydration
8 g fine salt
1 tbsp coarse salt, for the water, discarded

Method

Work the flour, water and salt into a very firm dough — it will look too dry and is not.
Knead 12 minutes, wrap, and rest an hour.
Shape into a loaf and hold it over the boiling pot on your forearm.
Shave thin strips straight off the top face into the water with a knife held almost flat.
They cook in 2 minutes and rise when done. Lift out and dress; they will not wait.

Page 8 of Fold & Pull — Knife-Cut Noodles, Daoxiao Mian recipe with dual metric weights and steps

Thirty-six recipes give hydration as a percentageA noodle dough is stiff, a dumpling dough is soft and a bun dough is softer still, and the whole difference is water as a percentage of flour. The number is printed so the dough can be felt rather than guessed from a picture.

Twenty-one carry a technique noteThe moves that are hard to describe — the fold that doubles the strand count, the fist that pleats a shumai, the three temperatures chile oil is poured at — are explained where they happen, in the step that needs them.

Fifteen say what freezes rawAlmost everything folded here is better frozen raw than cooked, and cooks from frozen without thawing. Where that is true the recipe says so, which is the difference between a weekend project and a Tuesday.